I’m answering questions now so I’ll likely get to the other person’s comment shortly. Deck Mud is a leveling mortar designed for interior or exterior underlayment. When you pick up a handful of it you should be able to squeeze it without water dripping from it. Tile goes directly to the mud (mortar). Thanks. Thank you in advance! 2. This was a repair on a 60 year old mortar bed and I did follow your directions about using thin set under the new mud. A couple C metal cap strips work great for floating deck mud: nothing to fill after you pull them out. For a 60lb. Unfortunately the patch job crumbled as well. Getting 2×2 porcelain tile, I always use Versabond or better and prism grout. Thanks for confirming this will work or a better idea. Tile Coach Episode 16 - YouTube You can find Sand Topping Mix at Home Depot. I’m unsure what you have going on there, but it sounds (from your first question) that you have a regular clamping drain, and now you’re doing a curbless shower? Pre blended mixture of finely graded sand and cement used for thick-bed mortar installations. QUIKRETE Floor Mud is a contractor grade, pre-blended underlayment mortar mix used to level properly prepared concrete and wood floors for setting tiles and installing shower pans. If I’m understanding correctly there is a small gap between the drain flange and the deck mud? That’s it. Very little water is used, which creates a thick mixture and causes minimal shrinkage after application. too thin and it will just crumble along the edges and disappear like the surfline in Malibu. I hope this better explains. Low-sag- supports heavy stone tile . Thanks 4 to 1 flattens and levels an existing substrate before the installation of tile and stone. Weight (lbs.) Is this possible? I’m assuming you didn’t change it? Deck Mud Mortar Size: 75 lbs. If it is over you would be better off using a self-leveling cement (slc). Kerdi-board Tile Backer by Schluter Systems: Floor Tile Installation Problems – “Tenting”, Shampoo and Soap Niches (Recesses) for Tile Showers, Tile or Marble Shower Benches (Shower Seats), “Wicking” – Water Migration in Cement Backer Board (CBU) Showers, Wicking II – Water Migration in Cement Backer Board (CBU) Showers, Kerdi Showers and the Schluter Kerdi Tiling Membrane, Concrete Patios: A Well-constructed Patio, Hydro Ban Crack and Waterproofing Membrane by Laticrete. It doesn’t need to be smooth by any means. Ceramic tiles can be glazed or unglazed and they come in a wide variety of shapes and sizes. I’ll have to do that and include it here. Available in: 50 & 75 lb bags Should I be concerned or will the thinset be sufficient to fill the voids so that the Kerdi membrane will lay relatively flat ? The deck is a covered deck with an open straight gable roof. Will install liner in wet area and add final wet mud in wet area and on ramp without the liner. OVERVIEW . I raised the drain after troweling to get to the height of the tile, or just below tile height. Can I use this same approach the room is about 6×5 feet. First, deck mud, at its THINNEST, should be no less than 1 1/4" thick, and I personally wouldn't stretch that to any less than an inch. Just mixed up the deck mud and made a shower floor – never would have gotten up the nerve to try it without your instructions. Hi, we used custom float bedding mortar to make the 2 layers (both layers sloped PVC liner in between) for our shower pan what I need to know is should I put redgard over the top of the shower pan before laying tile or does the tile go directly on the mortar? Do not use redgard over it, you can trap moisture between the waterproofing layer which will lead to issues. You can spray the entire pan with water (from a spray bottle, don’t blast it with a fire hose) and cover it with plastic for a day. Just put down some cardboard. Dry pack mortar is used for repairing the concrete cracks and to fill up the deep holes in the concrete. Previous post: Grout Does Not Stabilize Tile, Next post: How to Create a Shower Floor – Part 1. James is correct, just throw down some cardboard. Bed is 1 1/2″ over liner over sloped plywood, Also, I did not use reinforcing mesh, but I packed it VERY well, the scrap ball not so much. Using pre-mixed mortar and an drill, time can be cut in half for perfect mortar every time! Get Pricing and Availability. The mortar is packed in with a wood float or flat steel trowel and rubbed or scraped off until the dish shape of the shower floor is attained. David. Do I need a Precoat for the concrete floor to bond the drypack. It would be a better option to use a transition around the perimeter of the tile where it meets the stained concrete. dryer than sandcastle material. Too much cement and the mortar tends to clump as you mix it. I’ll be very happy if this comes out as strong and stable as the old floor. CA Prop 65 PDF. I will then use my angle grinder with a 7” diamond blade concrete to match the slope of the ramp down to the bottom of the straight line cut. Deck mud needs some depth to reach it's optimal strength. Don’t dilly dally around once the mud is mixed. The basic answer is that you want your finished shower floor (before tile) height to be flush with the slab outside the shower – then all the tile is installed to the same height substrate. Repairing small cracks; Narrow slots which are deeper than its width; Filling drill holes. Just put thinset on the concrete before packing the mud down in order to bond it to the substrate. Then tile away. TEC® Floor Mud Mortar is a portland cement-based mortar designed for thick setting beds under ceramic or quarry tiles. I mean beat the hell out of it. I prefer the regular quikrete sand, but either one works fine. Sand and cement mortar mix 4 to 1 is a preblended mixture of finely graded sand and Portland cement used for thick-bed mortar installations. Can I build wood walls down to the slab except for the brick curb for entry? Is there a better way to get the tile to the same height as the slab for ADA compliant shower floor? Ideal for floating shower bases. I’ll answer for future reference for others, though. c) Used a mini flashlight shined across the floor to find high spots in the mud… not sure if that’s the best way, but it seemed to work. Too much water will cause your mud to shrink as it cures and compromise the stability of your base. Sorry for the delay, got lost in the shuffle somewhere. Building your own shower floor from scratch requires shower deck mud, also referred to as dry pack mortar. I state never to use treated wood for the curb, it would be surrounded on three sides and concrete on the fourth – absolutely nowhere for expansion to go except into the tile. Dry pack mortar is nothing but a stiff mortar that consists of three ingredients such as cement, sand, and water. bag you need only add 30lbs. (The leanest ratios, approaching 7:1 are really only practical when fresh-setting tiles onto a wet mortar bed.) To create a shower floor from scratch we use what is commonly referred to as “dry pack mortar” or deck mud. Then make up that difference with lft in that area. Next day I found that my scrap pile (left over mud) didn’t harden at all (crumbly). Yes, but I don’t know what the ratio is in that so you’d have to do it by feel. putting project on hold until next week and while putting things away noticed my Portland cement says Portland plastic cement. This is my first attempt at building a shower pan and I want to get it right, so I appreciate the feedback. That strength is more than adequate for shower floors and other small areas. Water is what causes concrete and concrete products to shrink when curing. Roger, my first try at preslopes on the showers went perfectly thanks to your book. Tukwila's everyday low price! Code requires treated wood bottom plates in basement interior walls. The deck mud depicted above is ready to place and form. The reason they ‘recommend it’ is because they want to sell it. When I started looking at installing the final mud deck, I noticed that the drain threads weren’t long enough to put a 1 1/2″ mud deck in. This product is available in my area and I am wondering if it requires additional sand to achieve the desired 5:1 sand to cement ratio? What purpose does the extra sand provide to the sand topping mix? About how long can you continue to work this stuff? To read PDF files, you need the Adobe Acrobat Reader 6.0 … It should have been leveled beneath the strata-mat. Use Current Location. Regular deck mud without admix works just fine. The extra sand is to prevent it from shrinking (among other smaller things) like it did. MAPEI 4-to-1 Mud Bed Mix 55-lb Indoor/Outdoor Floor Patch. All the cool kids are doin’ it. This is how I mix mine – it’s convenient. Water was added in small amounts until the mortar was dampened completely. Two questions remain. The basic recipe is 5 parts sand to 1 part portland cement — 5:1. Two people curious to know; I’ll be in same situation from project delays and would just as soon repurchase if it’s even remotely an issue. Exterior or interior use. Deck mud is used because it shrinks very little. You may also require ‘floating’ plates in the wall, with pt wood. Deck Mud is a mixture of washed and graded plaster sand that has been factory blended. I finished the deck mud final coat above the liner last night. We have a curbless shower. Thank you again. Most of them will have to be thinned down just a bit by adding additional sand, as the cement content of the pre-mixes is too high (about 3:1, usually). Because I was afraid that I would accidentally bump and even damage That is flexibility, in a tile context. Preslope poured in wet area and then 18” of ramp to zero height above the slab. Why not use treated plates on the slab? Although in the future check the dates more closely before beginning. To recap, deck mud is the mortar to use when building shower floors. Getting the Right Concrete Mix. Note how it holds it’s shape when clumped in the hand. Or, do I need brick on all four sides? It can move without affecting your tile. I have therefore taken a few pictures of the mud I make, and I will explain the process once again. This would go on top of a strata mat I already have on top of the concrete slab and bonded with medium bed mortar. It is damp enough to hold itself together when packed but at the same time it contains no excess water. The manufacturer of admixes are the only ones who recommend it. d) Have a respirator/filter of some sort for mixing the dry stuff together. If it is any wetter it will shrink as it dries and it will not be as solid and stable as it should be. Whether using a pre-mixed product or sand and portland cement, it is important to dry mix the mortar before adding water. Hi Roger Mine is not a shower maybe next projet. The easiest and most convenient way to get your mixture correct is to buy the quikrete “sand and topping” mix which is sold at all the big home centers. The mortar bed may be reinforced with wire and either set over a cleavage membrane (that allows the mortar bed to "float" free of the substrate) or bonded to the substrate; hence, the use of the terms "floating mortar bed" or "bonded mortar bed". Your checklist really helps. The following weekend I came back and noticed the spots around the pebbles were crumbling pretty easy. Thanks, Roger. It’s normal. It is also much easier to work than mortars which contain more water, such as brick mortar, for example. I’ve written books that contain instruction for building showers, and others have written articles on the subject, so I won’t cover that exercise here. How to Mix Deck Mud for tiled shower floors. Don’t worry, it’s fine. Whatever thinset you are using for your tile is just fine. The Sakrete sand mix is a 4:1 ratio. The mixture should be approximately 1 part cement to 5 parts sand but anywhere for 4 to 6 parts sand to 1 part cement is acceptable. I floated a shower pan the other day with bagged deck mud which didn’t seem to pack as well as usual. But ALL of those have better solutions and in some, such as the framing, require different solutions. Just notch a light coat of thin set to the slab and go to town while it is still wet. This is the cement to use for deck mud. Whether you mix the entire batch from scratch or use the sand and topping mix it should all have this same consistency. It will continue to harden over time. Then you’re frantically mixing and throwing the second and third batches of mud in, wondering how in the *&%^ you’re going to make this stuff slope, freaking out some because the first batch is already getting hard, accidentally poking a couple holes in your Kerdi board with your 2×4 because all you can remember is, “Beat it like the last DMV employee you spoke with.” Then just when you’re sure it’s just a disaster, it starts to look sort of like a floor, and then you can smooth it out some, and things sort of come together.
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