At 12 o’clock I began to descend towards Camp 3, which I arrived at at 5 in the afternoon. Thanks for your concern, and your comments. I know they’re really experienced, but those last words seemed too obstinated.. (pick one). The poor weather prevented an evacuation, and Vitaly died in BC on February 6. Great news!! It is a waste of time to get so personally invested. On the 3rd at 04.00 PKT we will start our climbing and go from base camp to camp 2, our C2 is located under House of chimney. Feb 7 – Sajid gives an interview to Skardu TV saying he doesn’t believe they survived but they summited and an accident occurred in the Bottleneck. Very exciting news. As I was not feeling well, my father told me to go down, while they continued up. You are reaching a large crowd with your work. He has held Polish citizenship since February 2015. I can’t wait to get full details and know that they are safely back at BC. This intersection of purpose and passion give me strength each day. Alan Arnette has officially announced that he will be attempting K2 later this year as part of his ongoing effort to raise funds for Alzheimer’s Research. PS: I cannot imagine the grief Tamara Lunger must have gone through, losing so much in a single expedition. Alan Arnette: Winter K2 Update | Camp 2 Destroyed. K2 was first climbed 66 years ago by Achille Compagnoni and Lino Lacedelli; there had been six previous attempts in winter on the mountain, none of them successful, The Guardian reported. So many unanswered questions, I feel for the families… Can’t begin to imagine what they’re going through. We found that on the way to C1, all ropes are covered with tent advanced basecamp is damaged, there is also a high probability to destroy campsC1, C2, and C3. Your commitment to Alzheimer’s inspired me to action. Urubko reached around 7,350-meters/24,100 feet on his solo push before poor weather (high winds and low visibility) forced him back on February 27. They originally planned to use the Česen route, but they shifted to the Abbruzzi due to dangerous conditions. Also great sportsmanship in that all ten climbers reached the summit at the same time demonstrated the best of human qualities. The challenge remains for the mountain to be climbed without oxygen. They reached Camp 4 at, returned to lead an effort in 2017/17. It was a heartbreaking experience that I never want anyone to go through thus my ask for donations to non-profits where 100% goes to them, and nothing ever to me. Summiting K2 is obviously no joke, and doing it in winter is Russian roulette with only one empty chamber. Every update is professional and factual even while emphasizing that we don’t know all the facts. ... Alan Arnette. What was the name of the climber? It is heartbreaking to think of the families of the five people who passed on K2 plus Alex Goldfarb this winter. Thank you Alan for the informative updates along the journey, like others it has been wonderful to track the progress of this historic feat in somewhat real time. 1987/88 Attempt: 13 Poles, seven Canadians, and four Britons / made Camp 3. As we ascended, we passed the groups of the Sherpa expedition descending. I’ve been visiting your page every hour. He completed his 7 Summits Climb for Alzheimer’s project to raise awareness and funds for Alzheimer’s research. March 1 at the North Pole compared to being on the equator are very different. I’m sure I am not alone. Our friend, Alan Arnette, has posted a very personal account of his summit push on the Savage Mountain, sharing some incredible insights into the physical and mental challenges he had to overcome to reach the top of the toughest mountain on the planet. They were in the Bottleneck. Australia and New Zealand use the meteorological definition, so spring begins on September 1 each year. Also, Urubko along with Adam Bielecki – while taking part in the Krzysztof Wielicki led Polish winter expedition on K2 – led a rescue operation on Nanga Parbat to save climbers Élisabeth Revol and Tomasz Mackiewicz. Thanks Alan. Photo of the Ice Serac and Bottleneck are on K2 taken from Pakistani military helocpterr on February 7 2021 during unsuccessful search for missing climbers. But hold on, it gets worse (or different ). Take action and don’t talk about it. His Project 8000 is to climb the 8000 meter mountains he has not summited over the next 5 years. Feb 4 – It’s reported Snorri’s Team left C3 for the summit around 23:00 on February 4, 2021. Sajid telur að þremenningarnir hafi náð á tind K2 en sennilega lent í vandræðum á leiðinni niður Bottleneck. Purist will cry foul, most will applaud the accomplishment. I have helped several foreign climbers to get to the summit of different 8000ers. According to an SST report, the Sherpa team has descended safely to Base Camp, after spending a night at Camp 3. You don’t have to answer but just wanted you to know that your readers care about your well-being while you’re at home as we care about the well-being of these mountaineers. Unfortunately most of it will remain a mystery as Sajid’s last contact will not give us any further information.. Andrew i have a feeling the ropes had vanished and they probably had to fix a new section which may have added to delay, and pessimistic view is that they may have been blown off the mountain with the rope.. plus I’ve read that last section to the summit is not roped, it’s just a bit further up from bottleneck and then to just climb up.. so all the more chance of just slipping off our blown away on the night.. 67 year-old Krzysztof Wielicki returned to lead an effort in 2017/17. Does anyone have any information on the first attempt? I saw, what a tragic end to such a phenomenal day. I’m not a climber, that’s not for me but I do admire what these people do, they’re super heroes. In any event, congratulations to today’s team for making history and Nepal and the Sherpa people proud. Alan Arnette… Inability to acclimatize minutes. K2 is a killer. This is the first I have heard about a Sherpa expedition being higher on the mountain than the Sadpara/Snorri group and them passing each other. Please visit www.alanarnette.com as my primary public site. Alan Arnette is a professional Speaker, Climbing Coach, Mountaineer and Alzheimer's Advocate. He has completed over 30 major expeditions including four Everest climbs, with a summit in 2011, and a summit of K2 in 2014. I WISH YOU AND PRAY FOR A SAFE DESCENT !!! It’s unclear if Snorri was on O’s but he wanted to attempt without. Great that this Sherpa team succeeded. My thoughts go out to his loved ones and family, and basically everyone in BC, with this great loss of Sergi. When talking about the “purists” you talk most often about no o’s. Ida was special as is mountaineering to me. Winter chapter is close now. It took 7 hours for Sajid to climb down to camp 3. The second that winter was by Alex Txikon with two Polish and five Sherpa climbers. The same day 4th of January we start our summit push at 21.00 PKT and are aiming it will take us 15 to 16 hours to get on the summit. He completed his 7 Summits Climb for Alzheimer’s project to raise awareness and funds for Alzheimer’s research. To BC on Sunday. At about the time the four climbers started their ascent ( 10 pm on Thursday the 4th ) , there was a 4.5 earthquake in China, located approximately 80 miles NNE of K2. He did a short search but with no O’s and not acclimatized without it, it was very dangerous. I like their commitment to summiting as a group – shade of the first ascent of Everest. Next morning on the 4th at 08.00 PKT we go from C2 up the Black Pyramid to regular camp 3 and rest there over the day. Weather forecast, which only confirms the one short weather window around 11/03/2018, 3. This was the last report of seeing Snorri, Ali and JP. Feb 6 – Two Pakistani military helicopter (they always fly in pairs due to the ongoing conflict with India) reach 7,000-meters, between C2 and C3 but find nothing. There is no official communication from Snorri or Ali or JP’s home teams to the public. In either case there error of judgement involved to a degree.. Abbas, you seem like a great armchair mountaineer but maybe look up some facts before calling out a tragic accident of some of the best climbers in the world for summit fever, unpreparedness and a rushed attempt. He had hired Muhammad Ali Sadpara and Sajid Ali Sadpara to support his climb, Dec 13 – Snorri’s team fixed 600-meters of fixed rope on the lower part of K2 above Advanced Base Camp on the Abruzzi Spur route, Dec 17 – Snorri’s team finishes fixing the rope from ABC to C1, Dec 20 – Mingma G and his two Sherpa teammates fix the lines to C2, Dec 27 – Snorri’s team does first acclimatization rotation to C1 at 19,965’/6050m. The team of ten climbers, left Base Camp on Tuesday, January 12. I always appreciated him very much for his always positive thoughts and commitment and love for his friends and for the mountains. A brilliant achievement for the world and for the Sherpa people! The K2 2018 summer season came to an end when the Austrian operator Furtenbach Adventures declared the weather window had closed and they spent too much time on Broad Peak, thus missing their K2 opportunity. Summit Push in a few hours - from Rockand Ice.com They held hands and stood on the summit together singing the Nepali National anthem. Impact Avalanche in the upper path. Huge respect for those that attempt, whether successful or not. Nims suggested they speed up their ascent attempt so the others couldn’t catch up (since they were the ones setting ropes above camp 2) but Mingma G talked him out of it and wanted to go at their own pace for reasons of safety and maximising their chances at summit. Alan Arnette is the oldest American to summit K2 in 2014 and has 6 expeditions on Everest or Lhotse with a summit of Everest in 2011. If the various purists want to take the next step a s achieve this, they should go ahead and try! Arnette, 57, returned to K2 Base Camp Wednesday evening after the five-day rotation that took the climbers to Camp 2 at 22,000 feet. Yes! Now, 38 years later, K2 has been summited in the winter. Cited as "one of the world’s most respected chroniclers of Everest" by Outside Magazine. They are positioning the summit as a victory for Nepal and the Sherpa nation. Also, if it a rainy time of year or dry. It’s terrible that Sergi died today. Dec 29 – Snorri’s Team at C2 and talks about steep ice and rockfall plus high winds and very cold. K2 Winter SUMMIT!!!! Australia and New Zealand use the meteorological definition, so spring begins on September 1 each year. I know families read these stories, searching for hope and comfort. 1. He went up with the helicopter to approximately 7800 meters but found not signs of the missing climbers: (thanks to Desnivel for the translation). By any measure, this year’s January 2021 summit was in winter. Perhaps not 100% but they got the job done. I messaged Alan as he’s one of the most informed about mountaineering, but he’s not getting any msn msgs. Alan Arnette. One does not combat a mountain; one struggles against adversities. I believe the Nepalese team were there 3 hours earlier and then had a summit at 5pm.. so the 3 trying the a summit from then on would be a 8pm summit.. that would be dark of the night.. unless they somehow catch up on time.. If they were at the bottleneck at 10am, were they behind schedule or moving slowly? A minor correction, if i may, re: “1980 Reconnaissance: Pol Andrzej Zawada and Canadian-resident Polish national Jaques Olek”. An in-depth video account of my 2014 summit of K2 to raise awareness and research funds for Alzheimer's Disease. We may never know what happened. On Wednesday, they followed ropes established by Mingma G and Nims over the Black Pyramid and set up Camp 3. Jack, I don’t think recreational climbing will ever have “standards.”, Why did Snorri and team not try to summit along with the Sherpas during that summit window, given how favorable the weather was. Winds were so high on Thursday night that some climbers took cover in shallow crevasses rather than set up tents. I understand they all died doing what they so loved to do but what a shame and tragedy, especially for their families. Even Everest has been ‘conquered’ without O2, however, that was in summertime and on a less technical climb. I’m sure their families have more questions than us .. but Sajid’s last contact is the end of the factual story .. anything after that is mere speculation. They did not carry a satellite phone or walkie talkie. Besides alpinists, all the climbers take help from Sherpa to fulfill their dreams of 8000m peaks. And the fact that they were hours behind the pace set by the Nepali summiteers is also alarming, seeing as how the Nepalese group set that pace whilst breaking trail and fixing ropes. Leading mountaineer Alan Arnette has written extensively about Everest and K2 and analyzed climbing data of the two mountains. Everest summiter in 2011 and oldest American to summit K2 at 58 on his birthday July 27, 2014. They are said to be descending now. Computer generated weather forecast continue to call for extremely cold have the summit temps at -42F/-41C with a wind chill at -80F/-62C. There are very few. But I would like to come to the rescue of my fellow commentators here throwing in the ominous word “summit fever”. In Mingma’s words, they underestimated how harsh the condition would be, along with illness, which stopped them after only a few weeks. I pray to all the gods that they all descend safely. © www.alanarnette.com, K2 Summit View into China. 5. Urubko believed that winter ends at the end of February, while leader Wielicki felt it ends with the spring equinox on March 20, 2018, at 12:15 pm EDT.
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